Royals & Rebels

The British have made an indelible mark on fashion history. From designers like Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney to the bespoke tailoring of Savile Row, British school uniforms, Scottish tartan, the style of the British Royal Family and milliners Philip Treacy and Stephen Jones’ hat designs for Ascot. The rebels of Swinging London, punks and skinheads also influenced fashion in Britain, as did the royals themselves, including the beloved Princess Diana. As well as a fashion icon, she was also a rebel who used fashion to make a statement.

Discover at Royals & Rebels – British Fashion how the Brits have led world fashion, and feast your eyes on the work of a host of British designers, including Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Charles Frederick Worth, Liberty’s, Lucile, Edward Molyneux, Mary Quant, Katharine Hamnett, Paul Smith, John Galliano, Phoebe Philo, Richard Quinn, Gareth Pugh, Simone Rocha, as well as talented young designers like Bora Aksu, Robert Wun, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Matty Bovan

Anglomania: the fascination with all things British
The death of Queen Elizabeth II, the coronation of King Charles III, hit series like The Crown and the recent passing of designers Vivienne Westwood and Mary Quant have revived interest in British fashion. Punk is also very much alive and kicking in these turbulent times. Royals & Rebels – British Fashion could not have come at a better time.

Interest in the British lifestyle has a long history. Anglomania began in the 18th century, when everything – coaches, garden designs, dinners, gowns, men’s and children’s clothing – suddenly had to be à l’anglaise.
 ‘Redingotes’ came into fashion in the Netherlands in the late 18th century. These gowns based on riding coats were worn by women at the time of the Brontë sisters, in the early 19th century, when engaged in the modern practice of ‘promenading’ outdoors.

In the 19th century the British probably left their mark most prominently on men’s fashion, as colourful French designs made way for the restrained bespoke garments made by London tailors. The British capital became the main centre of tailoring, with Savile Row at its heart.

Leading designers like McQueen, Galliano and Beckham
The first ever couturier – Charles Frederick Worth – put his signature on one of his designs in the 19th century. Other Brits followed Worth’s example, making their name in both Paris and London. They included Edward Molyneux, a sizeable collection of whose work is housed at Kunstmuseum Den Haag.

They were followed in the Swinging Sixties by designers like Mary Quant, Biba and Ossie Clark, who in turn were succeeded by their rebellious, anarchistic and trailblazing 1970s counterparts Zandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett. Later generations of British designers have included big names like John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham. The younger generation includes influential designers Charles Jeffery Loverboy, Matty Bovan, Richard Quinn and Robert Wun.

Grote ontwerpers als McQueen, Galliano en Beckham
In de 19de eeuw zette de eerste couturier zijn handtekening in een kledingstuk: Charles Frederick Worth. Andere Britten volgden Worths voorbeeld en maakten naam in zowel Parijs als Londen, zoals Edward Molyneux, van wie het Kunstmuseum een zeer omvangrijke collectie bezit.

Ten tijde van Swinging London in de 1960s, volgden ontwerpers als Mary Quant, Biba en Ossie Clark. Opgevolgd door hun opstandige, anarchistische en baanbrekende collega’s Zandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood en Katharine Hamnett in de jaren ‘70. Latere generaties Britse modeontwerpers bevatten grote namen als John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney en ex-Spice Girl, Victoria Beckham. Tot de jongere generatie behoren invloedrijke ontwerpers als Charles Jeffery Loverboy, Matty Bovan, Richard Quinn en Robert Wun.

From royals to pop idols
The British lifestyle has had a major impact on western fashion history. Great designers were inspired by the ‘British vibe’. Take the suits Coco Chanel designed in English tweed, for example. For decades, the British Royals have also received international admiration for their sense of style, from the wardrobe of Princess Diana and the late Queen Elizabeth II to the fashion choices of Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle. Pop culture also includes numerous British style icons, including The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, David Bowie and, more recently, Harry Styles, who has influenced the dress style of millennials and made pearl necklaces, Peter Pan collars, nail polish and dresses must-have fashion items for men.

The strong connection between British fashion and music makes it seem like every era in fashion is accompanied in our collective memory by the soundtrack of some British pop song, be it by The Who, The Sex Pistols, Dusty Springfield, Duran Duran, The Spice Girls or Harry Styles.

Rebellion: in the city, in the country
Royals & Rebels – British Fashion will take visitors to different worlds. ‘In the City’ is all about bespoke suits, women’s tweed suits, houndstooth check, rainwear, the Aesthetic Movement and flowery dresses. ‘In the Country’ will feature clothing for the ‘great outdoors’: tweeds, redingotes and ‘sportswear’ like sweaters, pullovers, jersey tennis jackets, tweed sport outfits, and hunting and riding outfits.

‘Royals & Rebels’ is about the fascination with and the love-hate relationship between the British public and the royal family, as well as the many rebels who have had their moment there. One remarkable example is Charles Jeffery Loverboy, a young Scottish designer who incorporates a lot of Scottish tartan – the traditional symbol of rebellion – into his gender-neutral creations.

Rebellie: in the city, in the country
Royals & Rebels – British Fashion neemt je mee in verschillende werelden. ‘In the City’ draait om maatpakken, tweed mantelpakken, pied-de-poule outfits, regenkleding, aesthetic dresses en bloemetjesjurken. ‘In the Country’ laat kleding zien die geschikt is voor ‘buiten’, met tweeds, redingotes en ‘sports wear’ als sweaters, pullovers, tennisjasjes van jersey, sportensembles in tweedstof en rijkleding of jachtensembles.

‘Royals & Rebels’ gaat over de fascinatie, maar ook haat-liefdeverhouding met het Britse koninklijk huis. In combinatie met de vele ‘rebels’ die Groot-Brittanië rijk is, waar Charles Jeffery Loverboy een sprekend voorbeeld van is. De jonge Schotse ontwerper verwerkt in zijn genderneutrale creaties veel Schotse ruiten: het traditionele toonbeeld van rebellie.

This autumn Royals & Rebels – British Fashion will train the spotlight on British fashion, with a focus on Vivienne Westwood, the common thread running through the exhibition. With her deep sense of tradition and her brilliant, rebellious ideas, she paved the way for many others: in the city, in the country, and as a royal & rebel. The exhibition has been designed by Maarten Spruyt and is accompanied by a lavishly illustrated catalogue published by Waanders.

The exhibition has been made possible in part with the support of Nationale-Nederlanden.